![]() I could not imagine going back to an optical viewfinder now! Some would argue that you are no longer seeing ‘reality’. This was a legitimate concern when mirrorless first came out, but since then the electronic viewfinder has evolved by leaps and bounds. I rinsed off all the gunk and then put it in a ziploc bag filled with silica packets (rice would work as well), I left it in the bag for several days to fully dry and after that, it was good as new!ĭeath valley dunes 1024×683 27.6 KB Digital ViewfinderĪ concern many people have about transitioning from a DSLR to mirrorless is losing the optical viewfinder. When I got back to camp I had no choice but to rinse off the camera with fresh water and hope for the best. As I retrieved it there was algae falling off along with the muddy water, total nightmare. Once I was photographing plant oils in the Zion Narrows and managed to knock my tripod over due to a floppy tripod leg, which sent my X-T2 hurdling into a pool stagnant algae filled ‘water’. I have put the X-series cameras through their paces in all sorts of ridiculous conditions and have been very impressed. I have no complaints with the DR, it is quite close to the D850 and it’s still always better to blend images for maximum quality if that is your concern. Iridient x transformer review iso#The other options are to use Affinity Photo, Capture One Express Fujifilm, or RAW Therapee, all of which do a great job processing X-Trans files.ĭynamic range is still good on the X-T3, it hasn’t changed much from the X-T2, just better at ISO 160, but nothing you would notice in most situations. If you’re not a pixel peeper you will likely never notice the worm issue using the settings above. It’s a fairly painless process and it’s not like I’m converting every single image, just the very best. The easiest solution is to use Iridient X-Transformer which will process the raw file for sharpening and noise reduction, then bring a DNG back into Lightroom where you can do your final processing. You do end up with a mushy mess when working with foliage in Adobe products. There are a few scenarios where I have to use an add-on product to help alleviate the worms, if I have an image with a lot of fine detail, or when dealing with foliage. This gives a subtle amount of sharpening that removes the softness from a raw file which is what you want. The setting I use for sharpening is an amount around 100, Radius of 0.8, and Detail of 0. I have found that the detail slider (for Sharpening) in Lightroom is what causes worms, in fact it does this with most cameras and should be watched carefully, it’s just more apparent with the X-Trans. I use Lightroom to process all of my images and am very happy with the results. It’s somewhat true that Adobe has done a poor job of processing X-trans files, I wish it was better. If you have done any research you have surely come across the discussion of X-trans sensors creating worms when sharpening, especially with Photoshop or Lightroom. Let’s deal with the 500 pound gorilla in the room first worms. Do you really need all those MP’s for something you will post to the web at 1500px? Do you really need them for a 30×42 print that if you step back from and view at a reasonable distance you will never know the difference? Photographers tend to focus more on the gear rather than the meaning behind an image. Megapixels are a ridiculous metric that people continue to chase, it seems there are never enough. You are made to believe that your images are terrible if you’re not shooting with a full-frame camera that has at least 45 megapixels! The reality is that cropped sensors have come a long way and they are incredibly capable these days. Yes, it has a cropped APS-C sensor and ‘only’ 26.1 megapixels. There are a lot of naysayers when it comes to the Fujifilm X-Series for nature photography. Mud patterns 1024×683 84.4 KB Image Quality ![]()
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